Silver Cloud

“You’re going where?” “Are you crazy?” For most Americans, the notion of taking any trip to the Middle East, let alone a vacation, is a scary one. However, as journalists, it is our job to see the world, no matter how uncomfortable it might be. After spending three weeks in the Middle East, I can honestly say that the fears are completely unfounded. What became very clear to me, yet again, is how poor and misleading the media is in the USA. We know little or nothing about this part of the world and for some reason, the media seems to want to keep it that way.

Our trip began with an almost unbearably long flight from Dallas to the Seychelle Islands, where our cruise embarks. If you are not familiar with the Seychelles, it is a chain of islands off the east coast of Africa. That puts it pretty much on the other side of the Earth.

Not too many Americans have visited the Seychelles, most likely due to the extremely long distance one must travel to get there. Even under the best of circumstances it can take an entire day of air travel. As journalists, we rarely travel under the "best" of circumstances so our journey took two days! We left Dallas on the 19th and arrived in Mahe on the 21st after changing planes in Paris and again in Qatar. Talk about jet lag.

Airlines - We flew from DFW to Paris on American Airlines which was adequate, at best. We usually fly business class but we were unable to upgrade on this trip. What a difference, and not in a good way. While AA will not win any awards from us for its business class, the economy-class experience is barely tolerable. Unlike non-US carriers, American does not offer complimentary alcoholic beverages in coach. And you can forget about in-seat entertainment. These tired old 767s are showing their age and duct tape is not an uncommon sight.

We connected in Paris to Qatar Airways for an 8-hour flight to Doha. What a breath of fresh air Qatar Airways was! The new A320 Airbus was fresh and clean with no sign of AA duct tape repairs anywhere in sight. And the crew was equally fresh, young and very service-oriented. The in-seat entertainment system, with its large selection of movies, helped the time pass more quickly. The meal service was nice even though we were served the same choice of entrees on both Qatar flights we took. After flying on domestic airlines in America, we were just delighted to be served food!

The Banyan Tree Seychelles

We arrived at the Mahe airport about 7:30 am and were greeted by a driver from our hotel, the Banyan Tree Seychelles, who took our bags to a waiting 4-wheel drive vehicle for the 30-minute ride to the resort. Even as jet-lagged as we were, we couldn’t help but marvel at the beautiful tropical surroundings and the ever-present view of the Indian Ocean. Mistaken for the original ‘Garden of Eden’ by English general Charles Gordon in 1881, the Seychelles archipelago is considered to be one of the most unspoiled havens in the world and is home to two UNESCO World Heritage Sites. 

I am not sure I have the words at my command to aptly describe the magnificence of the Banyan Tree resort. Situated in hilly terrain on the scenic Intendance Bay along the southwestern coastline of Mahe, not only is the property located in a paradise-like setting rivaled only by Hawaii or Tahiti, but the layout and design of the property has been so well thought-out and executed that it truly is amazing. Banyan Tree Seychelles has successfully fused modern luxury and ecological sensitivity keeping true to its environmental philosophy. The accommodations consist of 60 luxuriously-appointed private villas, all with sweeping views of the ocean, and each carefully designed to blend into the hilly terrain and lush tropical foliage.

For a complete review of Banyan Tree Seychelles, click here

Silversea Silver Cloud

What more can we possibly say about Silver Cloud? This ship has earned Silversea our Best Small Ship Cruise Line award twice already. This was our third sailing on Silver Cloud and I am happy to report that the 6-star service Silversea is known for has not faltered. In fact, it may even be improving.

Rather than re-hashing all of the information about the ship that we have covered in our previous articles, I would like to focus on new observations and changes we noticed since our last sailing approximately 12 months ago. If you would like to know more details about the ship, please read our review from 2007.

Royal Suite

On this journey, we were very fortunate to occupy a Royal Suite (602). On previous sailings, we have always been in a Midship Veranda. There are only two Royal Suites on Silver Cloud (and Silver Wind) and they are located all the way forward (the pointy end) on Deck 6. The suite is expansive and luxurious. The door opens to a small entry hall with a hall table that holds an exotic espresso/coffee maker. The hall leads into a large living/dining room with a sofa flanked by two tables with lamps, two chairs, coffee table, and a full-size dining table with four chairs. Floor-to-ceiling windows and a sliding glass door enhance the view. In one end of the living room is a large 50+ inch flat screen HD television, on the opposite end is a desk/table and desk chair. The bedroom is completely separated from the living area by double French doors and features a queen-sized bed, night stands, a smaller flat-screen television and a makeup vanity table with stool. Built-in shelves next to the vanity table provide even more storage space. There is a window on one wall covered by a Roman-style shade that could be raised for more light and a view. A hallway off the bedroom is the location for two large closets and additional drawers and storage space. This is where you find the safe and hair dryer. The large bathroom sports a jacuzzi tub/shower combination.

The Royal Suite is simply too big to photograph. Here you can see the 50" flat screen TV, sofa and one chair.

There is a nice-sized balcony off the living room that faces forward (remember, pointy end?) with two chaise lounge chairs plus two other chairs and a small table. However, when seated you cannot see anything as your view is blocked by a steel wall. If you stand, you can look out over this wall to the ocean ahead. When arriving in or leaving port, it was interesting to watch the crew preparing the shipÂ’s ropes and anchor from our birdÂ’s eye viewpoint over the front of the ship. The sound of the bow-thrusters and the noise made by the anchor were quite loud in our suite, but luckily we only anchored at one port and we were usually up and about before the thrusters came into play. We also had to be sure that the shades were drawn on the windows and curtains closed on the glass doors before nightfall so the light from our suite would not interfere with the bridge which was located above us.

The size of the Royal Suite is downright decadent and it is very comfortable – so much so that we didn’t want to leave it! However, since it is located forward, and I mean forward, it is subject to more ship motion (especially pitching) than most of the other suites. The motion only became an issue on one evening during our entire 14-night cruise, but it was enough to make me raise the issue with our readers. If you are prone to motion-sickness, you should consider a suite farther aft. That said, 13 of the 14 nights onboard were rock-solid smooth. The furnishings in our Royal Suite were tasteful and comfortable, but there were visible signs of wear on the sofa and chairs. Door frames and facings revealed paint touch-ups that did not exactly match the original paint. These are subtle signs that Silver Cloud is ready for her scheduled refurb in May 2009.

Duminda Wickramasinghe, our excellent butler, keeps suite guests pampered.

One of the bennies (that’s Texas-speak for benefits) of the Royal Suite is butler service.* And this is worthy of mention. We have had butler service on several other cruise lines, but never before on Silversea. Our butler, Duminda, was outstanding in every way. He delivered a wonderful selection of canapés each afternoon and stocked, no, overstocked our bar with our requested spirits which, by the way, are all complimentary. He was able to make reservations for us in La Terrazza, the ship’s evening Italian bistro. No matter what you need or when you need it, pick up the phone and call Duminda and consider it done! Another great perk of having a Royal Suite (or Owner’s, Grand or Silver Suite) is complimentary laundry service. It was wonderful not having to worry about running out of clean clothes! Even same-day service is available if you have your laundry bag out by 9am.

Other nice features of our Royal Suite include a Bang & Olufsen stereo CD player, complimentary daily newspaper of our choice, Godiva chocolates, and fresh fruit and flower arrangements. We had our choice of Bvlgari or Acqua di Parma bathroom amenities, both of which were great. The area of the Royal Suite can be increased to 1031 sq. ft. by including the adjoining Veranda Suite, resulting in a space with two bedrooms, two bathrooms and two balconies.

*Butler service is offered to Royal, Grand and OwnerÂ’s Suite guests.

Food and Dining

Breakfast is RickeeÂ’s favorite meal of the day. We usually like to have a quieter breakfast in the main restaurant since most people hit the buffet at La Terraza in the mornings. However, on the first morning we had a bad experience with an off-tasting order of Eggs Benedict in the restaurant. To his credit, the Maitre dÂ’ was very apologetic and concerned about this and even brought the chef out for us to talk to about the dish. For the rest of the cruise, we ate breakfast in La Terraza, which turned out to be excellent. Even though this is a buffet, you can order just about anything from your waiter including eggs, pancakes, French toast, etc. And, the fresh fruit selection is second-to-none. La Terraza also offers the wonderful option of al fresco dining.

In general, we found the service to be much crisper and on point in La Terraza than in The Restaurant on this sailing for some reason. Perhaps it is because so few guests dine in The Restaurant for breakfast and lunch. It just seemed like the staff was not in sync. Not so in La Terraza. Drink refills were instant and water and wine glasses were never empty.

La Terraza is a great venue for lunch, too. The buffet is laden with delicious salads, vegetables and meat selections. There is a carving station that changes each day (pork, beef, lamb, chicken, etc.) The egg station at breakfast becomes a pasta station at lunch where a different creation is constructed daily. A red and white wine is offered at lunch and the wine choices were generally pleasant. A large selection of desserts is available as well as an ice cream sundae bar complete with all the trimmingsÂ…yummmm.

The Pool Grill offers a choice of burgers, hot dogs and grilled chicken sandwiches along with a small salad/dessert bar until 4pm.

If you simply cannot wait until 7:30pm for dinner, Silversea offers an Afternoon Tea service in the Panorama Lounge each day at 4pm. A nice selection of finger sandwiches, scones and sweets complements your choice of hot tea.

Before-dinner drinks and appetizers are served in The Bar and in Panorama Lounge starting at 7:00pm. We have always found the appetizers a little exotic for our taste. The chef is probably aiming for a more sophisticated palate than we possess. I would prefer chicken wings or coconut shrimp to caviar any day (do I hear the term “hick” being muttered out there?)

The full-sized dining table in our suite made Silversea in-suite dining even more appealing than usual. As a result, we enjoyed 'dining in' at least six evenings during this cruise. Orders were delivered by our butler and the table was transformed into a semi-formal affair complete with tablecloth and linen napkins. The food arrived fresh and hot each time. There is a set room service menu available 24-hours a day. The RestaurantÂ’s lunch and dinner menu is also available during regular Restaurant hours.

Making new friends is what cruising is all about. Here we enjoy dinner with James and Trish from England.

Food and service in The Restaurant seemed to improve during the evening service. It seems that when the pace here picks up, so does the service. The menu features classical and modern French cuisine with international flair. The French chef apparently likes his seafood-based soups. We would have liked to have seen a few more cream soups (mushroom, asparagus, artichoke, broccoli, etc.) offered. A CruiseLite and low carb menu are also available.

La Terraza becomes an Italian Bistro each evening with a focus on a regional Italian cuisine and the execution is excellent. The menu and concept here has changed since our last Silversea cruise. The atmosphere is much more romantic, quiet and subdued than the often harried Restaurant. With only 50 guests served each evening, reservations are required to dine in La Terrazza.

We did not have the opportunity to try the specialty restaurant, Saletta, on this cruise. However, a glance at the menu shows a very sophisticated multi-course journey through culinary heaven. For the ultimate wine experience, you can try the $200 degustation menu with wine pairings. If you would prefer to opt out of the degustation wine selection, you may still enjoy a gourmet dining experience without any pre-set wine pairings for a fee of $30 per person with no complimentary wines served. Reservations are required to dine at Saletta.

A wonderful Gala Brunch was served one day in The Restaurant and also a Galley Brunch where guests venture into the actual galley to select food served buffet-style. And the always-popular and lavish barbecue dinner served outside on deck was a big hit with all.

Service on Silversea continues to be second-to-none with smiling employees always willing to go above and beyond to please their guests.

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Entertainment and Activities

Veteran Cruise Director Judy Abbott does an incredible job of keeping guests entertained and happy

We were extremely fortunate to have Judy Abbott as our cruise director once again. We had such a great time with Judy during our South America cruise two years ago. She does an outstanding job of keeping guests entertained. And, her assistants, Therese and Sam, are just as capable. Unfortunately, Therese is leaving Silversea. She will be missed.

Daily activities are only a little more limited when the ship is in port since most guests are out on tours but still include such things as exercise classes, bridge play, shuffleboard and table tennis tournaments. Golf putting and the very competitive Team Trivia were offered in the late afternoon each day so participants would have time to make it back from tours. The onboard activities are a great way to make new friends and wind down from a day of discovery.

Typically, we are not big on shore excursions. We tend to prefer getting off the ship and venturing out on our own, perhaps having lunch at a local restaurant. However, this being our first time in the Middle East, we opted to participate in several of the organized excursions. SilverseaÂ’s Tour Desk does an outstanding job of organizing and executing excursions. The local operators they use all provided English-speaking guides, comfortable motorcoaches, bottled water and interesting itineraries. Some of the longer tours include a luncheon at an impressive four or five-star hotel. All of the meals we experienced were very well prepared and served buffet-style. While I would prefer to experience the local cuisine of the region, the menus are very Western in nature and tailored to the palate of the less adventuresome among us. The Tour Desk is glad to arrange private tours for guests in ports where such tours are possible. Also, local representatives came aboard at several ports to offer advice on sightseeing and provide maps of the area. Information about each port, such as currency, sights to see, shopping, local cuisine and shuttle service provided by the ship, was also included in the daily Silversea Chronicles which was delivered to your cabin each evening at turndown giving you a little preview of what you had to look forward to the next day.

On sea days, we were further entertained and enlightened with excellent lectures by Ambassador Adrian Sindall, a former senior British diplomat who served as Ambassador to Syria and British High Commander to His Majesty the Sultan of Brunei. Ambassador Sindall was also seconded to the British Ministry of Defense as a Middle East advisor at the time of the first Gulf War. His knowledge about the religion, culture and politics of the Middle East made for fascinating and informative lectures. Ms. Sue Krisman, a Creative Writing Fellow at Reading University in England, who has written novels, plays and performance scripts, conducted a series of lectures which included a great deal of music (both from shows and classical) and some voices and memories from the past. Cooking demonstrations and wine tastings are sort of expected on Silversea. Even though this sailing was listed as a “Viking Cooking School” cruise, we were a little surprised that there was only one cooking demonstration and one wine tasting during the 14-day cruise.

The evening entertainment on Silversea no longer includes production shows with singers and dancers. Instead, Silversea brings a variety of entertainers onboard throughout the cruise. My favorite was singer Amy Baker, a very talented, attractive redhead with incredible vocal range. Other entertainers included Beverley Davison, “the Diva of the Violin”; Philip Wojciechowski, a critically acclaimed concert pianist; Craig Dahn, pianist and entertainer; Australian variety entertainer, Darren Williams; and ventriloquist, Don Bryan. On nights where there were no performances, a big-screen movie was shown in the Venetian Lounge. If you wanted more activity, you could dance to the music of the Silver Cloud Quartet nightly in The Bar or disco with the DJ. Salvatore, the resident pianist, played in the Panorama Lounge at various times throughout the day and night.

The Itinerary/Destination

Our 14-night Middle East cruise, Arabian Peninsula I, started in Mahe, Seychelles and ended in Dubai, U.A.E. with port calls in Praslin, Seychelles; Salalah, Oman; Muscat, Oman; Fujairah, U.A.E; Khasab, Oman; Bahrain; Doha, Qatar; and Abu Dhabi, U.A.E. We had five days at sea. There are so many misconceptions about this part of the world that is hard to know where to begin the myth-busting. Everyone we spoke with before we left could not believe we were going to the Middle East. “Are you crazy?” “Aren’t you scared?” “For heaven’s sake, be careful!” Literally everyone expressed similar sentiments. We soon learned that the fears of Americans are unfounded and ridiculous. Of course, you have to be careful no matter where you travel in the world. Try walking through Central Park in New York at midnight by yourself.

If you plan to travel to this part of the world, and I think you should, there are a few things you should know. This is a different culture, rooted in the Muslim faith. By and large, the Middle Eastern people are much more conservative than the rest of the world. Women visitors should not wear revealing clothing in public including shorts, short skirts, plunging necklines or sleeveless attire. When visiting a mosque, your head, shoulders and legs must be covered. This means long pants for men and long pants or long skirts for women. Silversea did a good job of informing guests about the proper attire to be worn ashore. The Middle Eastern countries we visited had varying customs when it comes to dress but all were very conservative. One of the reasons Dubai is so popular with Westerners is that, by comparison, it is a very “Western” society. A lot of the people you see in Dubai are wearing Western-style clothing.

Language and communication is another fear one might have when traveling around the world. If you did not know better, you would swear that English is the primary language in most of the Middle Eastern countries we visited. Almost every sign or billboard we saw was either in English or Arabic with English translation. Most of the people working in shops and restaurants are not locals but tend to be Pakastani, Indian or Asian, and they all speak very good English.

If safety is a concern, all I can tell you is that we felt safer walking around the cities we visited than we have in just about any other part of the world, notwithstanding Singpore. You will feel much safer walking around an Omani city or Dubai than you will feel walking around ANY major U.S. city, I can guarantee that.

CruiseReport.com Tip Hummus is a bean dip made with chickpeas, garlic, olive oil and lemon juice. Tabouleh is a salad made from chopped parsley, cracked wheat (bulgar), lemon juice and chopped tomatoes. Food is also a concern for those who travel to the ‘far reaches’. “Will there be anything I can eat?” Well, for the die-hard Americans who would never consider eating the typical Middle Eastern fare of lamb kebobs, hummus, tabouleh or kibbeh, not to worry. KFC, Pizza Hut and McDonalds, along with all of the other usual suspects, have fouled the landscape here just as adeptly as they have most other parts of the world. I, for one, grew up eating Middle Eastern/Lebanese food (my father was from Turkey) so I loved the local food.

And what about the attitude of the people in that region towards Americans? This was probably the biggest surprise of all. Everyone we came in contact with was very friendly and showed no signs of animosity toward Americans, or even the policies of America. Several inquired about the upcoming presidential election and wanted to discuss the candidates and find out how we were going to vote! In fact, the only time we saw any animosity toward America was from the other American or European guests on board the Silversea ship. How sad is that?

I even took time to read the local or national newspapers of some of the countries we visited (they are all available in English) and what I found was very revealing. Articles that covered the Iraq war were very unbiased and fair. They basically just reported the facts of what happened that day in Iraq. I found it to be MUCH less anti-American than USA Today or The New York Times. In fact, I never once read what could be construed as an anti-American comment. Very interesting, donÂ’t you think?

Disembarkation

Luggage had to be outside of your cabin by 11pm the night before arrival in Dubai. Bag tags, color-coded according to your plans after leaving the ship, were issued. The ship was a little over an hour late arriving in Dubai and it seemed to take a long time for the ship to be cleared by local authorities. We had breakfast one last time in The Restaurant then went to the Venetian Lounge to wait for our tag color to be called to leave the ship. When our tag color was called, we proceeded to the gangway and said our goodbyes to Kinga, the International hostess. Our brightly colored luggage was easy to spot and we gabbed the bags then headed to the taxi stand where there were lots of taxis lined up and waiting. All in all, it was a simple and efficient disembarkation as is always the case with Silversea.

Following is a brief description of the cities we visited. Total mileage was 3274 nautical miles from Mahe to Dubai.

Praslin, Seychelles- In addition to the beautiful beaches and fantastic marine life, Praslin is best known for the Vallee de Mai World Heritage Site where the botanical rarity, the coco de mer palm, grows wild. In Praslin, while tourism is the leading economic source, traditional trades like plantation work, fishing and farming are not forgotten. The island is small and not too populated and has managed to remain relatively unspoiled despite the recent influx of visitors. We opted for the tour of the Vallee de Mai which ended at the Cote d'Or beach. From here we took the ship-sponsored shuttle back to the pier to tender to the ship. FYI: a special permit is required to take a coco de mer out of the country.

Salalah, Oman - Salalah is the capital of the Dhofar Province which is the southern region of the Sultanate of Oman. This region has been known for centuries for the production of frankincense. Attractions here include miles of deserted beaches, ancient forts, the souks, archaeological sites, fishing villages and the tombs of the prophets. This is the first place where we were advised not to take pictures of the local people without their permission, especially the women who will be greatly offended if you do. You also were not allowed to take pictures of embassies, government buildings or anything military in nature, including airports. This was also the first port in which we were issued a landing card that had to be presented when we left the ship and surrendered when we boarded again. If you lost this card, you had to pay a $10 fine. At this port, a shuttle bus could take you only to the port's gate where you then had to take a taxi to the town center. We opted for the Doha Heritage & Archaeological Sites tour which included a stop at a palace, a visit to a wonderful museum of Omani history, a stop at Takha Castle, a visit to the "dig" of a former important trading center where we saw wild camels roaming, lunch at the Crowne Plaza Hotel and a visit to the Al Husn Souq where several Silversea guests enjoyed bargaining with the shopkeepers for souvenirs. Our guide, Mohammed, spoke excellent English and was very knowledgeable about his country. One thing that impressed us about Salalah, which was true in all the cities we visited in the Middle East, was how clean the city is. Also, the colorful flowers that were plentiful along the roads were a nice addition to the scenery.

Muscat, Oman - Muscat is one of the oldest cities in the Middle East having been known since the second century AD. Muscat is the capital of Oman and parts of the city have retained a medieval appearance with two old Portuguese forts flanking the rocky cove around which the city was built. Under the rule of Sultan Qaboos Bin Said, the sultanate of Oman has gone from an underdeveloped country to a modern state with imposing government buildings, hospitals, new roads, and a university. Strong development in tourism has given Oman a new role as an intriguing and safe destination where age-old mystique blends with the modern age. Here, the onboard Tour Desk again reminded the guests going ashore of the conservative dress code (as they did for every city we visited) and that head and shoulders must be covered and legs covered to the ankle for any woman wishing to visit the mosque. We took the Splendors of Muscat motorcoach tour during which we visited the Grand Mosque (one of the most beautiful I have ever seen), the expansive Muttrah Souq which is one of the most famous in Oman, and the Grand Hyatt where we had refreshments. We also saw the Old City from a vantage point high on a hill, visited the Bait al Zubair Museum with its wonderful exhibits about Omani life and culture, and admired one of the Sultan's many palaces (this one resembled the Taj Mahal). The two ancient Portuguese forts stood guard over this palace. Our guide, once again, spoke English well and told us lots about the culture there including the fact that men are allowed to have as many as four wives.

Fujairah, U.A.E. - Fujairah is the only Emirate of the U.A.E. that is almost totally mountainous. It lies on the eastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula along the Indian Ocean, thus outside the Persian Gulf. Fujairah has a higher than average yearly rainfall thereby allowing farmers in the region to produce one meaningful crop each year. Fujairah enjoys a bustling economy due to its natural resources, strong industrial and commercial base and thriving seaport. As we sailed into port. we were surprised to see skyscrapers gleaming in the sunlight. In Oman where we had just been, no building could be taller than a coconut tree! We didn't take a tour here, but opted to take the ship-provided shuttle to the Lulu shopping mall to check things out on our own. We were amazed at the line of traffic coming into and leaving the port and also in the city. We noticed that most of the Middle Eastern cities we visited widely used traffic-circles (or roundabouts) and most of them had a lovely piece of sculpture in the center. Fujairah was no exception. At the Lulu mall, we window-shopped and visited a store called "Hypermart" which reminded me of a smaller version of Wal-Mart. It was interesting to see the traditional Arabic clothing on sale right next to the Western-style clothing. The merchants we talked with took US dollars and always had a calculator on hand for conversion purposes. Also, ATMs were readily available. We decided to forego the KFC and Pizza Hut and chose to have lunch at Meshwar, a lovely restaurant specializing in Lebanese cuisine. Perhaps because it wasn't noon yet, we had the place to ourselves. The decor was distinctly Middle Eastern and the food was delicious. We paid the check in U.S. dollars and found the prices to be reasonable.

Khasab, Oman - Khasab is known as "Norway of the Middle East" because of its towering, craggy cliffs and fjord-like inlets. It is situated on the northern tip of Oman's Musandam Peninsula which is separated from Oman by the U.A.E. The town of Khasab has experienced extensive development in the last few years. However, its inhabitants still depend on fishing and agriculture for their livelihood and the infrastructure in this traditional and conservative place is still very basic. Tourism is beginning to develop for those who want to experience an "off-the-beaten-path" destination. We opted for the 'Jebel Harim, Mountain of Women' tour for which a caravan of 4-wheel-drive vehicles were used. Ours was a Toyota Fortuner and our driver was Ahamed, who spoke very little English. The English-speaking guide was in the first vehicle in the 9-car caravan, and would address the entire group each time we stopped to check out the scenery. The drive to the top of the mountain was on rough dirt and gravel winding roads. Every once in a while, we would see donkeys or goats roaming beside the road. There were no guardrails on these steep curving roads but sometimes there would be a big pile of rocks indicating a dangerous dropoff.  When we reached Jebel Harim, there were some petroglyphs and fossils in the big boulders there. Some sort of military installment was present on top of the mountain with two big radar devices, one pointed towards Iran and the other towards the Indian Ocean. On this tour, if you needed a bathroom break, you found a rock to hide behind. On the way down the mountain, we stopped at a place with a panoramic view of the Indian Ocean, but there was too much haze in the air to see it very well. After a stop at a 400-year-old storage house made of stone used by Bedouins, we were taken back to the ship.

Manama, Bahrain - Bahrain is the only island-state in the Arab world and is known as the most liberal of the Gulf countries. Its capital, Manama, is about the size of Singapore and offers both a modern downtown area as well as traditional areas. Wind towers mingle with mosques, souqs and dhow building yards. In 1932, oil in commercial quantities was discovered in Bahrain, the first such strike on the Arab side of the Gulf. The Bahraini were the first to enjoy the benefits that came from oil revenues, enabling them to improve the quality of the country's education and health care. Since Bahrain's oil revenues are not on the scale of Saudi Arabia or Kuwait, the country is diversifying its economy, taking advantage of its long history as a trading nation and lengthy contact with the outside world. The opening of the King Fahad Causeway linking Bahrain and Saudi Arabia has resulted in a boost for business and tourism. Bahrain is the first place that the Tour Desk offered an excursion specifically for shopping. Bahrain is known for the finest quality pearls and gold jewelry. People we spoke to who went shopping said that it was a good experience. Other places of interest in Bahrain include Bait Al-Qur'an, home to a collection of rare Islamic manuscripts, prints and books; the Saar settlement archaeological site; and the Tree of Life which grows in the desert with no known source of water available. Since the weather was windy and very cool, we decided to stay onboard and enjoy the ship.

Doha, Qatar - Doha is the capital and largest city in Qatar with 80% of the nation's population residing there or in its surrounding suburbs. It is the cultural and commercial heart of Qatar and is an intriguing mix of old and new with over 260 mosques. The country of Qatar gained its independence from the British in 1971. Oil exportation began in Qatar om 1949 and today the nation, as a whole, produces over 800,000 barrels of oil per day. The harbor at Doha is a thriving international port, well equipped for modern commerce. The highlight of Doha is, unquestionably, the Corniche. Doha Bay was carefully constructed with landfill to make an attractive crescent, along which runs a charming area of shaded footpaths, cycling tracks, the Al-Bandar restaurant complex, the famous Pearl Monument, moored dhows, a park and enchanting views. The colorful flowers that line the roads are beautiful. There were lots of interesting-looking skyscrapers and more under construction. Traffic was heavy here. Even though there are not a lot of locally-produced crafts, Doha has wonderful shopping opportunities. We took the ship-provided shuttle to the City Centre Shopping Mall where we found 350 shops under tented architecture, marble flooring and glass elevators leading to an ice-skating rink, bowling alley and rock-climbing wall. U.S. dollars are widely accepted. Doha was the first port where we actually had to go through passport control. The local officials were checking to be sure each passenger had the visa required to visit Qatar and they were very thorough! Any bags you had with you had to be put through the x-ray machine before you were allowed to board the shuttle to go into town. Your passport was checked again outside by an official before you were allowed to board the shuttle. You also had to go through this same passport control when you came back to the ship.

Abu Dhabi, UAE -  Today, as a result of revenue from oil, Abu Dhabi is one of the world's richest cities, complete with wide tree-lined boulevards, lush green parks, gushing fountains and imposing skyscrapers. However, there is also the presence of an Arab mystique. After the discovery of vast oil reserves in the late 1950s and early 1960s, the city's economy and infrastructure developed rapidly and changed Abu Dhabi beyond recognition. Despite the breathtaking rate of development, the people of Abu Dhabi remain conservative and attach great value to keeping with traditions. They are deeply committed to Islam with over 400 mosques in Abu Dhabi. One of the most striking features of this city is its green lushness and proliferation of colorful flowers planted along the roadside. The municipality has spent a fortune to hire an army of laborers to turn this desert city into a green oasis. We took the ship-provided shuttle (a large motorcoach in this case) to the Marina Mall. Since we were here on a Friday, a lot of the stores were closed. We decided to take the fairly long walk from the mall to check out the 7-star Emirates Palace Hotel. It was worth the walk to see this place! The opulence was unbelievable with marble and gold everywhere. There was a lot of traffic in Abu Dhabi and  the city was cloaked in what seemed to be a haze or smog even though a nice breeze was blowing. We saw more different nationalities of people here than in any other port we had visited.

Dubai, UAE – Our cruise disembarked in Dubai and we made arrangements to spend an additional three nights to see this amazing destination in as much detail as possible. Dubai is re-inventing itself from an oil-rich economy to a major tourist destination. The ruling sheik is investing billions in making Dubai an international showplace for tourism. He is succeeding. When you combine incredible wealth with one man’s vision, amazing things are possible.

As soon as you set foot in Dubai you feel an energy and enthusiasm that is palpable. Even at the port as you exit the ship, you can see brand new construction trucks and new automobiles lined up as far as the eye can see, freshly unloaded from the huge car-hauler ships. The construction in Dubai has actually created a worldwide shortage of certain heavy-duty construction vehicles. With a large percentage of the worldÂ’s cranes now being used in Dubai, you canÂ’t swing a dead cat without hitting a new, ultra-modern highrise under construction. This must be what it felt like in New York City or Los Angeles in the 50s and 60s.

A visit to Dubai restores your faith in man’s ability to solve problems and accomplish great things. Sadly, we don’t see this much in the USA any more. Dubai is currently building the Burj Dubai which will be the world’s tallest building and could top 180 stories. From ground-breaking ceremony to ribbon-cutting will be three years! By comparison, we have roads in Dallas that have been under constructon for more than ten years! But in Dubai, everything has to be the biggest, the best, the tallest. This is the new “New World”.

CruiseReport.com Tip The taxis in Dubai are among the best in the world. Drivers wear uniforms, speak excellent English and the fares are reasonable. The vehicles are clean and are mostly new Toyota Camrys or mini-vans. Obviously, Dubai is much more popular with Europeans than Americans because of its geographical location. You can get to Dubai non-stop from New York or Houston and the flight takes about 16 hours. The flight from London, for example, only takes about five hours. The city has a “Vegas” feel to it, perhaps since everything has artificially been created out of the desert. The beaches in Dubai are beautiful white sand and stretch as far as the eye can see. The weather is good all-year round with VERY hot summers starting around the end of May through August. We were there in March and it was a perfect 75 degrees and not a cloud in the sky.

Our taxi ride from the Port of Dubai to our hotel, the Madinat Jumeriah (pronounced ‘muh-deena ju-muh-righ’) only took about 20 minutes and gave us a glimpse of the boom Dubai is experiencing, along with the inevitable traffic jams.

Madinat Jumeriah - The Arabian Resort

The Madinat Jumeriah is a magnificent tribute to Dubai's heritage and is styled to resemble an ancient Arabian citadel. It is one of three properties owned and operated by Jumeriah Hotels along Dubai’s beachfront: the Jumeriah Beach Resort, the Madinat and the crown jewel of the collection, the world famous Burj Al Arab. Like Vegas, everything is Dubai is “over the top” and the Madinat Jumeriah is no exception. Al Qsar, the centerpiece of the Resort, is designed to reflect a Sheik's summer residence and huge palm trees, manicured lawns, incredible fountains and golden statues of Arabian horses greet you when you enter the property. Service staff meet your taxi on the beautiful tiled driveway, take your luggage and whisk you to reception where you are offered a cold towel, tea and stuffed dates. We arrived early in the morning, way before check-in time, so the hotel offers to store luggage and suggests a host of activities for you while your room is readied. You can hang on the beach, visit the hotel’s world-class spa, have breakfast or lunch in one of over 40 restaurants on the property, or head to the Souk Madinat, the hotel’s own shopping mall with a bazaar-like atmosphere. We opted for the complimentary shuttle bus to the Mall of the Emirates, the largest and most modern shopping mall in the world. It is definitely something to see!

For a complete review of Madinat Jumeriah, click here.

During our stay in Dubai, we took a Dunes Safari offered by Travel & Culture Dubai. In this tour, you are picked up at your hotel and driven to the desert in a 4-wheel-drive vehicle. When you reach the dunes area, the driver lets air out of the tires and the adventure begins!  There were a total of nine vehicles in our group and we were second in line. I can't imagine what it would have been like to be at the end of the line! The sand was flying everywhere and the drivers were so skilled that they could turn the vehicle until it was sideways on the dune and spray sand over the vehicle completely covering the windshield! It was like having a sand shower. Sometimes when you approached the top of a dune and didn't know what was on the other side, it was like riding a roller coaster.

We stopped a few times to let the vehicles cool down and for us to take photos. It was great fun to try to walk up the dunes and suddenly find that you're up to your shins in sand. After the dune "bashing", we went to a desert camp area where we had dinner and were entertained by a belly dancer. Here you could also take a short ride on a camel, have a henna tattoo and have your photo made in traditional Arabic clothing. There was even a small shop there to buy souvenirs. Soft drinks and water were included and alcohol was available for purchase. It was a wonderful experience and we highly recommend that you do this when you visit Dubai.

Summary

A trip to the Middle East is a wonderful experience, especially if you do it on a cruise with Silversea.

When you go on as many cruises as we do, it is rare for a destination to really stand out as one of those "must-see" parts of the world. A few immediately come to mind: The Galapagos Islands; Alaska; China; and now, Australia and New Zealand. Australia/New Zealand has been on our "Big 5" list of destinations we want to visit for quite some time. What better way to experience this unique place than on a luxurious Silversea cruise?

Pre-Cruise – Sydney, Australia

United Airlines – San Francisco to Sydney

Our adventure begins with a 14-hour, sold out flight from San Francisco to Sydney on United Airlines. We opted to pay $300 to upgrade to “Economy Plus” which is UnitedÂ’s “premium” economy class claiming to offer up to 5 additional inches of legroom. In reality, there was about 2 inches of additional legroom on the 747-400. However, at 6Â’-1” with 34" inseam, I can use all the extra room I can get so I guess it was worth the extra money. One thing to be aware of when selecting your seat assignment, the lavatories are used all night long and, anytime the door to a lav is opened, the bright light shines as far back as six rows! I felt sorry for the people seated at the bulkheads right beside the lavatories. Not only did they have the lav lights shine on them all night, but people seemed to group in the area in front of those seats while waiting for a lav to become available.

The rest of the in-flight service was pretty basic international fare for a U.S.-based carrier. Beer, wine and spirits were complimentary. There was a late dinner, a snack and breakfast service. Food quality was fair to good for airline food. Attentdants were regularly seen moving about the cabin with bottled water. The entertainment system on this 747 was still delivered via the now ancient center wall screen and a few scattered drop-down monitors in the aisles. A lot of people seemed to be having trouble with the audio, including us.

CruiseReport.com Tip! It is a good idea to have some local money with you when you first arrive in a foreign city to pay for things like transportation and tips. Our advice is to order  over the Internet before you leave and have the currency delivered to your door!We landed in Sydney early in the morning. Customs and Immigration proved to be quick and painless, but the same can not be said for the wait for the luggage. When the luggage finally arrived, we made our way to the area outside baggage claim to search for information about transportation into the city. After a discussion with a nice lady at an information kiosk, we settled on what we thought was a bus, but turned out to be more of a mini-bus with not a lot of room for luggage.

The drive into Sydney took about 35 minutes and, as we approached the city, we were amazed at the number of modern skyscrapers and at the large amount of traffic we encountered. There was also a lot of road work going on. Another surprise was the many trees and green spaces in a downtown area. What a beautiful city!

The Observatory Hotel – Sydney 

Any cruise into or out of Sydney should include an extra 5 to 7 days to take in all of the sights in and around this great city. This is one city that you simply have to experience, and you can't do it in one or two days. We booked 4 nights at The Observatory Hotel in Sydney (an Orient-Express Hotel) and we could have easily stayed another 2 or 3 nights. We fell in love with Sydney after the first day and even more in love with The Observatory Hotel. For detailed information about this property, and our stay, click here.


Sydney Opera House

Who is going to travel all the way from North America to Sydney, Australia and not take a tour of the Sydney Opera House? If there is a single "must-see" attraction in Sydney it is this world-famous Sydney landmark. The Sydney Opera House is one of the most recognizable and photographed landmarks in the world. Of course, it is nearly impossible to go anywhere in Sydney and not at least see the Opera House from a distance. However, an up-close and personal tour is the only real way to experience The Sydney Opera House. Better yet, take a tour and attend one of the many concerts or operas performed year-round.

The Sydney skyline from inside The Sydney Opera HouseEven if the performing arts donÂ’t float your boat, the 1-Hour Tour gives a fascinating account of the legacy of the building, the political intrigue and the real-life dramas that go on behind the scenes at one of AustraliaÂ’s leading tourist attractions. On the inside, beneath the sails, some of the most unique and unforgettable experiences in Sydney are to be found. Tours are offered throughout the day and we had the opportunity to experience both the 1-Hour Tour and the early-morning Backstage Tour, complete with breakfast in the Green Room. Our guide for the Backstage Tour was Adam, a trombone player in the Opera House orchestra who regaled us with behind-the-scenes tales. The Backstage Tour, which has a maximum group size of eight, gives you exclusive access to areas normally reserved for performers and crew. You can take up the conductorÂ’s baton in the Opera Theatre orchestra pit and sing on the stage of the world-famous Concert Hall, following in the footsteps of performing legends such as Pavarotti. You can also peek inside the starsÂ’ dressing rooms and, naturally, get to hear all the secrets and real-life dramas that go on behind the curtain. We thoroughly enjoyed both of our tours of the Sydney Opera House and highly recommend the experience. We regret that we didn't have time to see a performance there. 

Recently, a new visitor experience has been created: High Tea at Sydney Opera House. This takes places at Bennelong restaurant, and features a signature menu created by celebrated Australian chef Guillaume Brahimi and a 25-minute opera recital. Combining the breathtaking architecture of Sydney Opera House, the elegance of BennelongÂ’s dining room, the unbeatable views, the very best in contemporary cuisine, and performances from some of the opera worldÂ’s brightest stars, High Tea at Sydney Opera House will quickly become one of SydneyÂ’s “must-do” experiences.

Sydney Opera House offers a range of entertainment and tour packages designed to deliver an all-encompassing Sydney Opera House experience for visitors. Package options include a tour of Sydney Opera House, a pre-show dinner at one of SydneyÂ’s best restaurants, a pre-show cocktail cruise or an interval drink. Packages are available for all major performances at Sydney Opera House including Opera Australia, Sydney Symphony, The Australian Ballet and Sydney Theatre Company.
 
Other Sydney Attractions

Look for the red Sydney Explorer signs all over town to pick up the bus.A trip on the Sydney Explorer Bus and the Bondi Explorer Bus, both "hop on/hop off" busses, is a great way to see the city and its surrounds and the beautiful beaches so prevalent in the area. We also rode the train to Katoomba to visit the majestic Blue Mountains. You don't want to miss seeing the city from the water at night so take a Harbour Lights cruise. Darling Harbour is a great entertainment area, complete with aquarium, wildlife center and Maritime Museum. There is also a large shopping mall there where we found Dr. Pepper in a candy store for the outrageous price of $2.50 AUS per can (and worth every penny!) From the ferry departure area at Circular Quay, we took the trip to Manly where we window shopped and ate fish and chips. The beach there is beautiful (and crowded!) The ferry ride is an adventure in itself due to the huge number of sailboats in the harbour. Because Sydney is such an international melting pot, just about any type of cuisine you could think of was available.

Getting around Sydney, even though it is such a huge city, is easy. Taxis are readily available but busses are also a good way to travel. The city has an underground train system and also a monorail. Even though it was summertime and very warm while we were there, we walked a lot as The Observatory Hotel had such a great location.

Silver Cloud

Three of my favorite things to see: Rickee, The Sydney Opera House and Silver Cloud!On embarkation day, we made the short trip to the International Cruise Terminal at Circular Quay where Silver Cloud was docked. After dropping off our luggage with the porters outside the terminal, we rode the escalator up to the check-in area where we filled out forms for Customs and waited until the ship was ready to board. After passing through security checks, we were welcomed aboard by Cruise Director, Colin Brown, with whom we've sailed before, and proceeded to the Venetian Lounge where we were greeted with champagne and canapes, a Silversea hallmark. Even boarding a Silversea ship is an elegant experience. Here we dropped off our passports and picked up our stateroom keys/boarding cards.

Very little has changed with Silver Cloud since we last sailed her in March of 2006. You could say that is a good thing since the ship has consistently received some of the highest praises from travel media types over the years. In 2006, our cruise aboard Silver Cloud convinced us that Silversea was still the small ship cruise line to beat in the industry; therefore, we gave Silversea our EditorÂ’s Choice award for 2005 for the third year. Well, you can add another year to that reign as Silversea will be receiving yet another EditorÂ’s Choice Award for 2006!

The Best Small Ship Cruise Line 2006 Silversea is our pick for Best Small Ship Cruise Line for the third year in a row! Silversea has earned this distinction for four of the last five years!Silversea did upgrade a few things when Silver Cloud went into drydock in Genoa in 2006. A few new aerobic machines with individual TVs were installed in the fitness center. We also noticed new fixtures in the public restrooms. Public corridors and suites were recarpeted and chairs and sofas in suites and public areas had been reupholstered. This year, more upgrades will be made including: New balcony furniture and deck chairs New Sealy mattresses (Stearns & Foster Plush and Sealy Posturepedic Plush EuroTop) Wi-Fi in all suites Installation of "Viking Cooking School at Sea" equipment More gym equipment with individual tv screens New in-suite audio systems   Flat screen TVs in all suites

Overall, the years have been kind to the oldest ship in SilverseaÂ’s fleet of four vessels. Excellent maintenance and housekeeping results in a ship that looks as fresh as the day she was smacked by an champagne magnum. We cannot emphasize enough how well Silversea ships are maintained. Brass railings and fixtures are continually being polished. Windows that go unattended for days on other cruise ships are clean and clear on this ship giving guests clear views of the scenery without the annoyance of water spots.

Every suite on Silver Cloud greets you with a bouquet of fresh flowers and a chilled bottle of Champagne.

The bedding in our suite, while comfortable, is ready for the scheduled replacement. There is a visible sag in the middle of the mattress.  Our Midship Veranda Suite (531) was comfortable and roomy and our cabin stewardess, Kinga, made sure it was kept immaculate. We are pleased to report that the a/c that never seemed to quite work right on our last Silver Cloud sailing worked flawlessly on this voyage. The large walk-in closet can easily accommodate enough clothing for two weeks or more for two people. The safe appears to be a newer model and is much easier to program and use than the older models. The private veranda features a teak deck, two adjustable deck chairs and a small table. Everything we have on our "wish list" for the Silver Cloud suite is being included in the scheduled upgrade later this year. Kudos to Silversea for making an already great ship even better!

The only interruption to a “perfect” cruise was the symphony of slamming stateroom doors by our neighbors at all hours of the day and night. This is something we have experienced on other ships, but never before on Silversea. A courteous guest should always take care when closing doors (just like in a hotel) so as not to rattle the walls. Nevertheless, Silversea should consider technology to reduce the possibility of slamming doors.

Excellent customer service and attention to detail is where Silversea continues to lead the industry. This is no small accomplishment in an industry that is legendary for customer service. Every member of the Silver Cloud staff and crew go to extra lengths to make every guest feel welcome. The word “no” is virtually not in the crew’s vocabulary when a guest makes a special request. So, you want examples, right?

1. We mentioned to Hedi, the Maitre dÂ’ Hotel, that we would like to have a special Indonesian dinner one evening. Without hesitation, he asked us who we would lke to invite to dine with us and what items we would like on the menu. Three days later, eight of us were treated to an impressive display of Indonesian dishes that were as pleasing to the eye as they were to the palate.

2. When we could not decide what drink to order one day at the Pool Bar, Silversea veteran bartender, Alma who hails from Croatia, took control and made us a special concoction of her own design. The drink was so tasty that we returned almost every afternoon challenging her to outdo her previous creation. She did not disappoint.

3. One evening, Rickee realized she had not had her caviar “fix” since boarding the ship. All it took was a call to room service and, within minutes, a bowl of chilled caviar with all the accompaniments was cheerfully delivered, as was a bottle of chilled champagne!
 
4. Several Americans onboard expressed a desire to see the Super Bowl which was, because of the time zone differences, broadcast on TV in New Zealand on Monday. Somehow, the ship was able to obtain the programming and set up the Venetian Lounge for viewing the game on the big screen, complete with snacks. The game was also available on your stateroom television and at the Pool Bar via a Spanish channel.

5. Guests lounging around the pool are periodically offered cold face towels and served ice water, frozen fruit slushes, ice cream and fresh fruit.

6. Ice water and fruit punch are always available where the tenders dock on shore. This is a nice touch in the hot, humid climate of this part of the world.

This kind of service and responsiveness is de rigueur on Silversea.

Dining

Inventive and tempting desserts are just one of the dining pleasures aboard Silver Cloud.Guests aboard Silver Cloud have several options for dining. this trip under the careful direction of Executive Chef, Joerg Penneke from New Zealand. The Restaurant is an open-seating arrangement for a la carte breakfast, lunch and dinner. The focus is on contemporary, wholesome and regional cuisine, with a wide range of light and low carb fares. Full vegetarian menus are available upon request. The service in the Restaurant is always impeccable and the food delicious. La Terrazza is open for casual buffet-style breakfast and lunch with indoor and outdoor seating available. Evenings, this venue offers an authentic, a la carte taste of Silversea's Italian heritage. A different region is featured daily on the menu, complemented by a choice of regional wines and decadent desserts. Reservations are required for evening dining in La Terrazza. Saletta wine restaurant is where you go for exclusive Relais & Chateaux degustation dinners celebrating wine and those regions of the world renowned for their rich wine heritage. A nominal fee of $150 is charged for dining in Saletta and reservations are required [Editor's Note: We just received notification from Silversea that the fee structure at Le Champagne/Saletta will be changing soon to allow for more flexibility and options at this unique wine-themed dining venue]. An early continental breakfast and afternoon tea are served in the Panorama Lounge, as are pre-dinner canapes. Casual lunch fare can be enjoyed by the pool at the Pool Grill, weather permitting. And, of course, room service is available 24-hours a day complete with tablecloth, china and crystal. A full-length meal served course-by-course could be ordered from The Restaurant, if you wish.

We again had the pleasure to experience a galley buffet lunch where we saw the talented chefs at their busiest and most creative best, and another gala Restaurant buffet lunch featuring elaborate carvings of ice, fruit, vegetables and butter. A lavish South Pacific deck barbecue was held by the pool one evening complete with entertainment by the Silversea Quartet and after dinner disco dancing to the sounds of DJ Ritchie. The weather cooperated beautifully and a fine time was had by all.

Shipboard Services

Silversea Announces New Spa Concept The Spa at Silversea, will replace the line's existing Mandara Spas and feature new treatments and ceremonies designed to offer a more personalized and holistic spa experience that focuses on the guest's individual needs and lifestyle. More infoEach evening at turndown, a copy of the Silversea Chronicles is left in your suite. This publication is loaded with information about shipboard personnel and daily activities as well as information about the port we were to visit, such as port history, shopping tips, cuisine, sights to see, pier information, and currency exchange. The menus for the following day are also included in the Chronicles.

A complimentary newspaper is delivered daily to your stateroom with news selected based on your passport nationality. In addition, Silversea has rolled out its onboard newspaper service with over 280 of the world's most popular periodicals from 50 countries and in 30 languages. You can subscribe to this service for $7.50 per publication per day. A selection of complimentary newspapers could always be found in the ship's Library for reading while in the Library.

Silver Cloud has an Internet Point with five computers. Wi-fi is available in the Library, Panorama Lounge, and Card Room for those traveling with laptop computers. The basic "pay as you go" rate is $.75 per minute, but packages are available such as 250 minutes for $100 (40 cents per minute) or 100 minutes for $55 (55 cents per minute) to be used any time during the cruise. The Internet Point was one of the busiest places on the ship! Several times, we had to make use of the Wi-fi and use our own laptop as all the ship's computers were in use by other passengers with more waiting in line to use the computers. An IT Officer and members of the Silver Cloud Social Staff, are available at certain times to assist passengers with computer matters. It should be noted that the quality of Internet connection, reliability and speed are much improved over our last Silver Cloud cruise. Perhaps this is due to satellite availbility in this part of the world, or upgraded hardware. Regardless, I was always able to get a connection and the speed was better than on most ships. Even the Wi-Fi performance was acceptable. I was pleased to discover that I could use my MacBook laptop to video chat with my brother in Texas!

A well-stocked Library contains a nice selection of books in several languages and DVDs available for viewing in your suite. The Library is also the place where you would find the daily Sudoku and crossword puzzles. Comfy leather sofas and chairs make this a welcoming and comfortable place to relax.

Complete valet services, including laundry, pressing and dry cleaning, as well as alterations, are available at a charge. There is also a self-service laundrette on Deck 4. We have always found the laundry and dry cleaning service on Silversea to be top-notch. Items are usually returned the same day and are very nicely pressed, folded and wrapped in tissue paper.

There is also an onboard Medical Center staffed by a doctor and nurse on 24-hour call when at sea. The onboard fitness center features state-of-the-art equipment and men and women's sauna and steam rooms. Fitness classes are conducted by the onboard fitness director and personal training sessions can be arranged for an extra fee. The Mandara Spa and beauty salon offer invigorating facial and body therapies along with hair styling and manicure and pedicure services. The Shops of Silversea feature a wide selection of designer jewelry, fashions, perfumes and Silversea-branded items. Toiletries and convenience items are also available for purchase.

The Silversea wireless system allows passengers to access cellular and other data services on their own compatible mobile phone or Internet-enabled device while at sea. Users will be billed by their home mobile phone provider. Calls or messages will appear as roaming charges. When near port, the system is turned off, and user may connect to the local wireless network as permitted by the user's home service provider.

Entertainment and Activities

Sir David Dain lectures on Afghanistan

Silversea always does a wonderful job of providing enrichment lectures that further enhance the cruise experience. This voyage was no exception. The informative and interesting guest lecturers on this trip included: Britain's Sir David Dain, High Commissioner at Islamabad until 2000 who has negotiated with the Taliban in Kabul and with Pakistan coup leaders; Dr. Gerald M. Pinciss, Professor Emeritus at Hunter College and the Graduate Center of the City University of New York who has written several books and developed courses and texts for interdisciplinary studies in art, architecture, literature and music; and Dr. Lewis W. Falb, a retired college professor and academic administrator who was a Fullbright Scholar in Paris and earned his doctorate at Yale. Dr. Falb also has been a guest speaker on cultural history at Sotheby's in New York.

Neil Hanson does his best Dame Edna impersonation

Entertainment had a definite Aussie flair on this cruise and included Danny Elliott, Australia's premier multi-instrumental and vocal entertainer who has performed with some of the biggest names in the industry; Neil Hanson, pianist, singer and raconteur who, for three years in a row, won "The Mo Award" which is awarded in Australia for excellence in live performance; Richard Scholes, who uses masks to be funny, sad and mysterious as he weaves them into routines where they seem to float, change at great speed, burst into flame and even disappear; Karen Beckett, one of Australia's most popular cabaret artistes who weaves her show with the very best songs of the twentieth century interspersed with her humor and stories from life; Bob Howe, the Guitar Man, who offers an unusual and entertaining act incorporating instrumental favorites, vocals, pop, country, old time rock n' roll music and tributes to legends; and Mickey O'Connor who had an amazing juggling act. We were also honored with a classical piano concert performed by the incredibly talented Cruise Director, Colin Brown. Something missing from this cruise was the production shows by the Jean Ann Ryan Singers and Dancers who had entertained us on our last Silver Cloud voyage.

Rickee and Colin tear up the dance floor at the Pool Barbeque

Daily activities are varied and always include several exercise programs, table tennis, shuffleboard, needlepoint, team trivia and golf putting. Bridge players were ever-present in the Card Room and lessons are offered daily. There are cooking demonstrations by Chef Joerge, wine tastings with Head Sommelier Morris and cocktail-making demonstrations.  Recent-run movies are shown on the big screen in the Venetian Lounge. Audience participation games such as Name That Tune, Liars' Club and The Newlywed/Not So Newlywed Game, ably hosted by Assistant Cruise Director, Andrew Carbone, were also enjoyed. The Silver Cloud Quartet plays for dancing in The Bar and Salvatore regales guests with his piano stylings in the Panorama Lounge. Guests can even disco the night away in The Bar with DJ Ritchie. The Mandara Spa personnel offer beauty seminars and demonstrations of products and treatments. Dance lessons are conducted by Gentleman Host, John Hennesy. There are also galley tours and visits to the Navigational Bridge.

Nikki, Silver Cloud's Tour Manager, takes a photo break in front of the geysers at Te Puia.

Another area where Silversea excels is the Tour and Excursion Department. We were pleased to see that Tour Manager, Nicole Denarie (we call her Nikki), was still on board since our last Silver Cloud sailing. Nikki and her team did an excellent job of organizing and executing a variety of interesting shore excursions. I should probably mention that the more Rickee and I cruise, the more we like to get off the ship and explore on our own. Sometimes that might be renting a vehicle to drive around an island, or simply walking into town for lunch at a local restaurant. While some cruise ship tour departments are unable (or unwilling) to offer suggestions to guests who prefer to “go it alone”, Silver CloudÂ’s tour desk and concierge are a welcome exception. They can arrange rental cars, private taxis or vans, even make reservations at local restaurants. At certain ports, hospitality desks were set up onboard where local residents provided information about things to see and do at that port and even change money for guests.

CruiseReport.com Tip! Be sure to always take photo ID with you when you leave the ship. At some ports, local officials check ID and won't let you reboard the tender or enter the pier area without it.There were lots of interesting tours from which to choose on this particular voyage. We did participate in five organized shore excursions: a vineyard and wine tasting tour of the Hunter Valley area in Newcastle with the first stop at a historic old jail and lunch at one of the vineyards; a city tour and wine tasting in Noumea, the "Paris of the Pacific"; a trip to the geothermal wonderland of Rotorua at Tauranga which included a delicious lunch at the historic Prince's Gate Hotel; a wonderful Maori Cultural Experience and Forest Walk in Bay of Islands, led by a Maori native and included lunch and a visit to the Waitangi Treaty House; and a city tour of Auckland including a visit to volcanic Mt. Eden and the Auckland War Memorial Museum, where you could easily spend several days. All motorcoaches used in the tours were comfortable and airconditioned and guides were personable and knowledgeable. Each tour was escorted by a member of the ship's staff or crew. We missed one port on our trip, Norfolk Island, as the seas were too rough to safely use the tender boats. This was surprising as we had commented the entire trip about how incredibly smooth the seas had been. It was like sailing on glass except for this one day at Norfolk Island.

At several ports, when the Silver Cloud docked, we were entertained by local singers and dancers in native dress performing on the pier. In Newcastle, the Hunter Valley High School Koalas' marching band greeted us with a lively welcome serenade. At some ports, vendors set up booths to sell local arts and crafts pierside. Whenever possible, Silversea offered shuttle bus service into town.

Disembarking and Auckland

We never look forward to leaving a Silversea ship, nevertheless, Silversea makes the process a painless one. We thoroughly enjoyed the ship, the wonderful service, and the people and wished that we were staying onboard for the voyage back to Sydney. However, we had an adventure awaiting us in New Zealand! Our luggage was placed outside our suite by 11pm the night before disembarkation. Disembarkation morning, we had breakfast in The Restaurant, then gathered our hand luggage to leave the ship, claim our checked luggage in the cruise terminal, clear Customs and take the short walk to our hotel, the beautiful Hilton Auckland , located at Princes Wharf where the Silver Cloud was docked. A porter in the cruise terminal loaded our luggage on a cart and pushed it the short distance to the hotel, where a room with a large balcony overlooking the harbour (and the Silver Cloud!) was available for us.

The Hilton Auckland

There is no other Hilton in the world like the boutique-style Hilton Auckland which opened in 2001. It is perched on the end of Princes Wharf, 330 yards out to sea, and almost surrounded by water. Located in the heart of trendy Viaduct Basin, it is close to some of the best bars and restaurants in Auckland. Downtown Auckland and the ferry terminals are within walking distance.

Rooms in this hotel are contemporary, sophisticated, stylish and exquisitely furnished with large bathrooms with separate walk-in showers and amazing views of the harbour. There is also a restaurant (White); bar; glass-fronted heated outdoor swimming pool suspended from a 4th floor bridge; gym with trainer; concierge; tour bookings; car rentals; secretarial services; 24-hour room service; massages and beauty treatments at the adjacent Spa de Servilles; babysitting; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning and on-call doctor/dentist.

We found the service and style of Hilton Auckland to be superior and can highly recommend it to anyone sailing into or out of Auckland. The hotel's close proximity to restaurants and bars, and the ship's pier, make it an obvious choice. Our four nights at the Hilton Auckland convinced us that we had made the perfect choice in post-cruise accommodations.

Seeing New Zealand

Since we both like to ride motorcycles, we gathered up our courage, rented a Honda Goldwing, helmets, jackets and gloves from New Zealand Motorcycle Rentals and spent three days riding through the beautiful New Zealand countryside. It was especially nerve-wracking at first since they drive on the left side of the road there. However, we soon adapted and the risk was worth it to ride the Pacific Coast Highway and visit the Coromandel Peninsula. We rode to Piha and marveled at the twisty roads winding through rainforest conditions which led to this magnificent beach. We rode through the Hunter Valley wine region and saw vineyards and wineries. We rode in sunshine and rain, wind and fog. The scenery was incredible, ranging from rolling hills and pastures complete with sheep and cattle, to ocean and rainforests. It was summertime in New Zealand and, to us, the temperature was absolutely perfect: not too hot and not too cool. We were sad when our bike rental time was over and we had return the Goldwing. A motorcycle trip around the South Island could be in our future!

A word of warning when departing from the Auckland International Airport on Qantas Airlines: make sure your carryon luggage does NOT weigh more than 7 kilos. There are personnel right outside the security checkpoint who weigh your carryon luggage, and if it is overweight (which most everyone's is!), you have to rearrange the contents and make it lighter by putting stuff in another bag or go all the way back to the ticket counter and check the bag! This experience was a nightmare! If you are traveling to America, you have to go through New Zealand security which will let you keep bottled water. Then you also have to go through US security where you have to have the ziploc bag with 3 oz. containers, etc. and NO bottled water. All foreigners have to pay a $25 per person NZ departure tax and have our boarding pass stamped before we can go through security. So, it pays to arrive at the airport VERY early.


Thumbs Up/Thumbs Down

Cruise Director, Colin Brown - Colin is always smiling, visible and very accessible to guests.

Assistant Cruise Director, Andrew Carbone - Andy made sure everyone was entertained during our cruise. His golf putting obstacles are legendary!

 Embarkation/Disembarkation- Everything was handled smoothly and efficiently. Check-in was quick and painless.

Enrichment Lectures - Silversea does a great job of finding notable experts to add to the destination experience.

Suite Accommodations - The Midship Verandah Suite is one of the most spacious and well-appointed suites you will find anywhere. And, with the planned upgrades, will only get better!

Itinerary - Australia and New Zealand are two must-see destinations.

Inclusivity - Virtually everything is included in the cruise fare except for incidentals such as gift shop purchases, spa treatments and shore excursions.

 Slamming suite doors - We wish that Silversea could come up with a mechanical fix that would prevent suite doors from being slammed.

Overall - A cruise on Silver Cloud is a great way to see any destination. We are big believers in small ship cruising, especially in an area that is as scenic and remote as Australia and New Zealand. Silversea continues to impress us with great service and wonderful itineraries.

Exploring 6 Star Luxury:

Filtering through all the brightly-colored and smartly-marketed brochures, and investigating the where to go and what to do on a cruise vacation is quite a lot of fun. I always envision destinations afar, and most times we choose the destination first, and hope for the best on the ship facility part to fill that destination agenda.

The ordinary was not the case this year when reaching out for excellence – There would be no compromises, no excuses, just the finest service and amenities. Every itinerary Silversea Cruises offered seemed embraced by a lavish layer of distinction. In our case, the final Silversea choice was to an area we had longed to visit. This fulfilled our vacation wish-list, blending both our dream itinerary with extraordinary service and elegance.

My wife Carol and I received a shipment some weeks later with our packet of reservation documents and we knew that our cruise on the Silversea ship Silver Cloud would be an exceptional experience. From the moment we opened the elegant leather voucher-case, which was packed with personal and distinctive luggage tags, and a new vacation expectation level ensued. From that moment on we sensed the welcome mat of elegance offered by Silver Cloud – we could hardly wait!

ITINERARY: I envisioned writing and recounting of our captivating itinerary aboard the distinctive Silver Cloud in the Baltic Sea. I could go on at length about the enticing ports in Northern Europe. However, it was the allure of this top quality vessel that must first be emphasized as I briefly describe this voyage.

We embarked in Amsterdam, Netherlands. Flying in early is a comfort with today's busy pace with airlines, and Silversea's staff can help your travel agent arrange lodging and transfers.

By arriving early, we enjoyed an engaging but leisurely day in Amsterdam, a city to be savored for its world famous museums and the special charms of her canals. This also allowed time to decompress from traveling before boarding Silver Cloud – We did not want to board bleary-eyed and jet-lagged.

Our first cruise stop was Tallinn, Estonia. Its old town of medieval architecture is as wonderful as those in Germany or the South of France. Estonia is a country quite proud to be out of the Soviet domain. Then we were on to St. Petersburg, Russia for two glorious days of exploring the Hermitage Museum, the opulent gilded Peterhof Palace, Catherine's Palace and others. From Russia we sailed onward to historic Helsinki, Finland.

A special city came next, Stockholm, Sweden where beautiful tiny islands link together to form one of the loveliest cities on earth. Last and not least was Hans Christian Anderson's enchanting and immaculate Copenhagen, Denmark. But, I won't go on and on, for on this cruise we found that our ship was to be a destination in and of itself. Does it seem possible that a ship, its crew, and services could account for such feelings of vacation completeness?

But, though this was a most remarkable itinerary, the ships of Silversea generally do not stay fixed on one itinerary. They move on to new and wondrous places around the globe visiting peoples and places on nearly every continent. I want to convey that what came to be our most loved destination of choice each day was the Silver Cloud herself. The ship was a haven that we were eager to return to and share stories of the day with our many new friends.

Above the Silver Cloud is quite impressive docked here in Helsinki, Finland on her 10th anniversary.

SILVER CLOUD: The sleek white ship is 16,800 tons at 514 feet in length, and can carry 296 passengers. This is a comfortable number even when dinner time arrives. You get to know fellow passengers in a relaxed, open-seating atmosphere in one of the two available dining locations. Open seating affords the freedom to dine with the people you meet for the first time or prior friends – how delightful!

CABINS: The striking differences between a Silversea cruise vacation experience and the larger more typical ships are many, but they start with the amount of personal cabin space that is standard on this all-suite, all-outside cabin luxury ship. Differences begin with the suite arrangement at a generous 250 sq. feet, and goes up to the impressive multi-roomed Silver Suite at 541 sq. ft., an Owner's Suite. with two bedrooms at 827 sq. ft, the Royal Suite at 1031 sq. ft. with two bedrooms, and finally, the palatial Grand Suite, a 1300 sq. ft., two bedroom, lavish accommodation with all the amenities that a ship's captain or a captain of industry might require.

Our cabin was the introductory size suite. We did have a balcony, and most of the suites aboard Silver Cloud do. If you are in a climate and itinerary that would avail the use of a balcony, why not enjoy this pleasure for a modest additional charge? The suite was essentially two rooms, one a sitting and dining area, the other a bedroom. Draperies may be utilized to separate the two areas if you desire. Appointments in fine wood and attractive art gave the suite a sense of refinement.

Above, no elegance is spared when you have a private meal En suite. The staff made the dining quite nice.

We enjoyed breakfast in the suite four of our nine days aboard the Silver Cloud, and we dined elegantly with fine linens in our suite three special romantic evenings. No effort was spared by the room service staff to extend that feeling of gracious attention to detail. Both the main dining room and the standard and quite comprehensive room service menu were available in our suite.

Beverages of choice were always available, and the maid gladly stocked our personal preferences in our suite's mini-fridge. An excellent list of wines and beers was included in your cruise costs for those with a potent-potable palate.

It is not customary for us to rave about a ship bathroom, but when you have fine marble, a full tub with shower, and Bvlgari toiletries –a mention is obligatory! A huge walk in closet had thick plush bathrobes and slippers waiting for our in-suite comfort.


CUISINE: While Silver Cloud roams about the latitudes and longitudes of the world, guest's gastronomic pleasures are enhanced, as her menu evolves to reflect the culinary delights and specialties of the current region.

When Carol and I stepped into The Restaurant we knew we had arrived for a very special dining experience. The Restaurant is elegant, but not stuffy, the staff is attentive and personable, but not hovering, and they are quietly - ever-watchful of your favorite foods, drinks, and habits, with a goal of meeting these personal requirements. Catering to individual taste and preference is what distinguishes the ordinary from the exceptional cruise experience.

Then came the main event, which were inspired dishes created by Silversea's Master Chefs. The dishes were complemented by those of La Collection du Monde, and created by the world-class chefs of culinary partner Relais & Châteaux. The menu was marked by innovation and creativity. I feel certain that most patrons will delight in these epicurean creations, and a dining experience that rivals the best restaurants the world over.

ABOUT SHIP: You might dress for a workout in the well-equipped gym, or visit the Mandara Spa for that special attentive massage, or the full array of services designed to enhance your vacation relaxation. Mandara is a Sanskrit legend translated to signify, a search for a magical elixir to promote extended life and beauty. The staff caters to Silver Cloud guests in the quest for these ultimate experiences while aboard.

Once you have been sufficiently pampered in the Mandara Spa, and you have done your daily gym workout, then perhaps a cool drink of your choice while lazing around the pool is the perfect way to enjoy the passing scenery. Again, all drinks except special or more exotic beverages are included in your cruise rate. Also included are all tips – Guests on the Silver Cloud need not worry of daily issues other than simply enjoying this experience.

Silversea Cruises celebrates its 10th anniversary of providing unexcelled service worldwide. We noted on our cruise that many guests were repeat clients - because they appreciated the high level of service and quality. It was their ultimate vacation and they had come to love and enjoy Silversea's superior quality of relaxation and service.

Carol relaxes on a warm Baltic June day near the pool - a favorite spot for chatting, or a quick outdoor luncheon.

ACTIVITIES: There were varied ship activities tailored to suit the clientele, ranging from exercise classes, lectures on various topics, and shore briefings. Trivia, scrabble tournaments, and the ping pong invitational brought out those looking for activity. A good book or movie would get the attention of still others. It is a vacation and the choices are many and varied. The richly decorated and well stocked library always had followers, as did the various lounges, and a favorite spot was, of course, the Internet Café.

TO ADJUST: To come up with valid criticisms on the world's premier recognized six star cruise line only makes one think of more positive things…like the gourmet coffee, outstanding room stewardesses, and dining and room service personnel – so this is challenging.

If I proposed change from our entire nine days onboard the Silver Cloud it would be that they raise the television position twenty to twenty-four inches in the standard suites, and this could be easily accomplished. It is difficult to view the programming or news from bed – I know, a really picky criticism and minor inconvenience, but I do feel this to be a positive suggestion and improvement to a nearly-perfect ship, suite, and vacation experience.

My only other proposal would be to begin the single-seating dining at 7PM rather than at 7:30PM. This would allow entertainment to be scheduled at 9:45PM, a seemingly more inviting time than the usual 10:30PM. I feel that more guests would be inclined to stay up after their busy day of such exhausting luxury and personal attention and would be less likely to miss the fine shows and entertainers. It is impossible to savor all that is available, but a bit of schedule tweaking might be helpful.

OVERVIEW: For many Silversea patrons perfection has become a standard for their vacation. Those who are new to the Silversea ambiance are seeking that incomparable way to celebrate an anniversary, wedding, or merely life itself. A Silversea vacation cruise aboard the Silver Cloud may alter your personal expectations and overall concept of vacationing and cruising.

We think you will savor the experience and create exceptional memories that will last a lifetime. My guess is that once will not be enough. You will dream of once again standing forward on a dazzling star-lit evening as the prow of a Silversea ship plies distant seas for new adventures and faraway horizons.